INTERACTIVE: Malaysia scrubs out pretty poisons in cosmetics

By SHYAFIQ DZULKIFLI

PETALING JAYA: Three new chemicals commonly found in cosmetics products are under scrutiny and will be banned in Malaysia starting November 21, according to the National Pharmaceutical Regulatory Agency (NPRA).

These chemicals—octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), perboric acid, sodium perborate and boron compounds, and 2-(4-tert-butylbenzyl) propionaldehyde (p-BMHCA)—are classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic, and reprotoxic.

Explaining how these substances pose health risks, Professor Dr Misni bin Misran from the Department of Chemistry at Universiti Malaya said XXXXX

We take a look at the NPRA's data of banned cosmetics since 2008 and here's what we found.

 

Rising toxicity in banned cosmetics

A total of 266 cosmetic products were banned from Malaysia’s market between 2008 and August 2024 due to the presence of banned substances, official data shows.

Data from the NPRA portal show an increasing trend of banned products containing scheduled poisons in recent years.

28 cosmetic products were detected with scheduled poisons in 2023, marking a 47.4% increase from the 19 products identified in 2022.

In fact, 2019 remains the peak year with 37 products flagged and removed from the market for containing harmful chemicals.

From January to August 2024, 12 additional products were identified as containing harmful substances

 

 

Most common violators

NPRA’s scrutiny has revealed 19 different types of banned chemicals across the 266 banned products. In total, a staggering 349 harmful substances were detected since 2008.

Mercury, a well-known toxic metal, has been the most frequently detected contaminant, with 131 cases. This was followed by hydroquinone, found 89 times, and tretinoin, detected 77 times.

 

 

“Mercury, a known toxic metal, is often used in skin-whitening products for fast results.

“Since most of the sampled products were from the skin-whitening category, a higher number of these were found to contain mercury,” the agency said.

NPRA explains that these harmful substances are difficult to detect at the initial screening stage, as adulterants often remain undeclared on product labels, bypassing NPRA’s screening system for notified ingredients.

However, the substances are identified during post-market testing, where non-compliant products are flagged and pulled from shelves.

 

Surge in unsafe cosmetics

An analysis by The Star indicates that from 2017 to 2024, the average number of harmful substances found per banned product rose to 1.4, compared to 1.12 between 2008 and 2016.

The rate has continued to climb, with January to August 2024 showing the highest rate yet, at an average of 1.75 harmful substances per product.

 

 

 

According to the Ministry of Health (MOH) agency, the rise in the number of banned cosmetic products reflects the agency’s intensified efforts to monitor high-risk products under its Post Market Surveillance (PMS) program.

The PMS program actively tests cosmetics, especially those in high-demand categories like skin-whitening products, eye-area cosmetics, and baby products.

“This targeted sampling approach is contributing to the growing number of cases where harmful or banned chemicals are detected.

“Additionally, sampling is guided by alerts from other regulatory agencies, consumer complaints, suspicious manufacturers, and misleading cosmetic advertisements,” the agency stated.

The agency also suggests that consumer demand for instant beauty solutions drives manufacturers to resort to unethical practices.

“The natural desire to look better and the promise of quick, visible results, keeps the demand strong.

“ In an age where instant gratification is prized, cosmetics offer an accessible way to enhance one’s appearance almost effortlessly.

“To meet this demand, certain manufacturers are suspected of including strong, unapproved ingredients that deliver rapid but potentially hazardous results.

“Some companies are willing to cut corners, sacrificing safety for profit, which has contributed to the presence of harmful substances in products marketed across Malaysia,” the agency said.

The NPRA notes that a significant number of these problematic products fall under “no-rinse” categories, such as face creams and lotions.

Compared to “rinse-off” products like soaps, “no-rinse” items pose greater risks because of prolonged skin exposure, which increases the likelihood of harmful effects on consumers’ skin and health.

 

 

 

Regional effort to curb unsafe cosmetics

In addition to surveillance, the NPRA collaborates with regulatory bodies across ASEAN to share information about harmful products through the ASEAN Post Marketing Alert System (PMAS). This network ensures that dangerous products flagged in other countries are promptly removed from Malaysian market.

“Through PMAS, this information is swiftly disseminated among Member States so that proper action can be taken everywhere.

 

Consumer vigilance urged

MOH advises consumers to stay informed about product safety by verifying cosmetic registration statuses before purchase.

While NPRA regularly alerts the public on banned cosmetics, the official cautions that consumers must remain vigilant, especially with products promising rapid results.

They urge consumers to question the legitimacy of products with unusually fast-acting effects, as these may contain potent, unsafe chemicals.

“Preventive measures are crucial.

“Consumers must prioritize their health and safety by choosing reputable brands and checking product statuses before making purchases,” the agency said.